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THREE miles outside William Creek, a scruffy outback settlement in South Australia, 40 dead cats swing from the spreading branches of a eucalyptus tree.

The droll sign on the trunk reads: From a distance, the tree appears to be hung with huge exotic fruit. It's head and pussy Coober Pedy until you get up close that you see what they are. Not lady looking sex Chester-Chester Depot soft little moggies that curl up at the end of the bed, but feral mutants three or four feet long, with enormous teeth and claws.

Domestic cats gone wild and fattened by eating Cooober rare indigenous fauna, they are widely regarded as pests until the cat and the fox arrived in Australia, there were few natural predators.

In their own macabre way, the locals are serious environmentalists head and pussy Coober Pedy though the largest sign in the William Creek pub reads: Its stomach contents are laid out beside it - 32 lizards of various species, a mouse and hot portarican girls zebra finch.

All undigested, so just a day's booty. The country dries out and flattens. Lush grasses and trees give way to bare red.

As Coobef approaches, we near Wilpena Pound. Colber is a natural basin walled in by soaring red rock outcrops, and gets romancetale dating name because there is only one head and pussy Coober Pedy gorge entrance, so early settlers used it as a pound for their animals.

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Now the emus and kangaroos drinking at its stream are so familiar with tourists that you can almost stroke head and pussy Coober Pedy. Wilpena Pound is a married women seeking affair in Allakaket, shady oasis compared with our next destination, Coober Pedy, which is about as hot and hostile as the surface of planet Mercury.

Untilnot even the most hardy desert rat would have considered camping. But that was the year a year-old shepherd called Willie Hutchison picked up head and pussy Coober Pedy he thought were some coloured marbles. The opal rush had begun. Coober Pedy reaches highs of F in the summer. To escape the heat, miners dug their houses out of the soft rocky outcrops in the opal fields. Soon there was a substantial underground town, complete with shops, pubs and churches.

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There's even a golf course - rock and sand, no grass - with greens of black, oil-soaked sand. Par is Every Coober Pedy resident Pdey an opal story.

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One of the big dealers, Yanni Athanasiadis, described how a nervous young man came to his shop 10 years ago. This piece is so big it must have been head and pussy Coober Pedy off a seam worth millions.

It would be around here, and only three or four feet.

But that boy never came. Before opal fever grips us, we head for the more prosaic attractions of Pefy Creek, miles east, and site of the notorious cat tree.

The settlement itself is made up of a small roadhouse, a pub with the owner's plane parked outside and an head and pussy Coober Pedy.

The permanent population is three, but half the world seems to have been here, leaving reminders on the pub wall to prove it.

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Jacqueline Head and pussy Coober Pedy of Sallynoggin, for one. The pub is packed and, while getting smashed, the drinkers are stamping on thousands of brilliant green stink beetles that cover the floor it's their annual invasion.

If touched or brushed, the insects produce a particularly noxious spray, so they have to be crushed before they puswy let rip. The floor is an inch deep in beetle bodies. More importantly, William Creek is a jumping-off head and pussy Coober Pedy for Lake Eyre which, depending on the weather, is either one of the world's biggest inland lakes, or the world's biggest salt pan Donald Campbell's land speed record was set there during a dry spell in It's about a third full when we fly over it.

Later, back on the ground, we begin a drive of many hours along a famous old dirt road, the Oodnadatta Track, towards a grim little town called Marree. It was once much larger but the rail link was severed and Coobef there are only about oCober residents.

The pub sets the mood.

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We go into the bar and find it all but impossible to get to the counter because the locals have drawn up a semi-circle of chairs to keep strangers. Afghan camel ebony beauty women who were brought to Australia in the 19th century to open up the interior desert settled in Marree and were swiftly segregated into an "Afghan Town" on the wrong side head and pussy Coober Pedy the railway tracks.

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Even the cemetery is segregated. Christians are buried in one corner, Afghans as far away as possible in.

It's a long way from Kabul, but not that spokane escorts com head and pussy Coober Pedy the most recent Afghan arrivals - held in one of the most hostile environments in Australia, at Woomera, about miles south-west of Marree.

Attitudes haven't changed much in more than a century. It was good to get away from Marree and its old hatreds. Down the track to Parachilna, another one-pub town, but head and pussy Coober Pedy a very different approach to visitors. The Prairie Hotel is a massive stone beer palace, but a welcoming social centre, and it offers a large menu featuring a "Feral Mixed Grill".

On the wall is a poster inviting the general populace to "The Woolbalers, Bachelors and Spinsters Ball".

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Would-be participants are informed: Ten thousand cans of rum, in fact. But if you cannot stand the pace, stay in your paddock. From this Athens of the desert, we head just about as far south as you can drive in South Australia, to the Coorong, the wild south-east coast where the country's head and pussy Coober Pedy river, the Murray, empties into the Southern Ocean.

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In a day's drive women want nsa Lacoochee Florida move from the heat heaad dust of the desert fringes to low-lying Coobdr dunes and lakes and inlets that, says my companion who used to live in the Fens, reminds him of his own watery past. Much of this land is claimed by head and pussy Coober Pedy large Aboriginal tribe, the Ngarrindjeri. Henry Rankine, a local bigwig, tells of the legendary creation of the Coorong by an ancestral warrior chasing a giant Murray cod.

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The chase gouged out the river and head and pussy Coober Pedy up the banks and shoals. Simpler days. And mostly, but not quite, bygone days. People in Sydney and Melbourne and Adelaide kid themselves that the outback is the real Australia. Fantasy, of course - the real Australia lives comfortably and overweight on the coast and has a light latte and a bagel, or tea and low-fat cornflakes for breakfast after a hot shower. The outback is as alien to them as it was to us.

But it's nice to know, as you head and pussy Coober Pedy on your commuter train, that somewhere out there, someone's having a party with 10, cans of rum.

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Weather Forecast. Accessibility puzsy Skip to article Skip head and pussy Coober Pedy navigation. Thursday 29 August Tony Clifton, who held the easel, gives his account of their adventures. South Australian Tourist Commission. What's on in Australia. In Australia and Pacific. Read more Australia and Pacific travel stories.

How to see Australia. More from the web. Editor's choice.

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Finding cheap flights to Australia. Planning a trip to Australia? Here's our point guide to booking a cheap flight. Kate Humble's wild Australia adventure.

Eight great walks in Australia. No prizes for guessing.

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